Hunting dog supplies

Cut collars/cut vests & first aid http://www.uglydogranch.org/udrshop/index.php Very good value.

Terrier collars http://strong-stuff.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ Although it isn't advertised on his site; Aaron makes a 5-ply Hi Vis Orange with Scotchlite reflective stripe collar for working terriers. I am unaware of any other terrier collars of remotely comparable quality.

Hunting leashes http://www.dhart.com/canam-k9/leashes.htm Pierre at Can-am makes superb brass quick release leather leashes that are ideal for hunting dogs. I have a couple and they are very handy for when you need close control of your dog. The quality is extremely high and they seem to get better with age as the leather is broken in. With a bit of basic care these leashes will last a lifetime or more.

Tracking equipment http://www.canicom.co.uk/contactsystem.htm expensive, but quality gear. I haven't got my own, though I know a couple of hunters that swear by them.

Terrier locators and remote trainers http://www.decoying.co.uk/?page=show-category&cat=11 I have a basic remote trainer at my kennel and it is absolutely priceless for teaching obedience at a distance with dogs who have selective hearing at a distance.

Lamping equipment http://www.lamping.co.uk/lamps.htm I am told that this is a great company for quality lamping gear at a sensible price. Frankly I just use a 3D cell Maglight & I have found it to be sufficient, though im sure I will invest in a decent lamping set-up at some point in the near future.

Wormer / flea control and other veterinary supplies http://www.hyperdrug.com Cheap & quick delivery. If anyone knows of anywhere better please tell me.

Hunting knives http://www.heinnie.com I use and recommend the Boker - Arbolito Tacticos II (Grande), with the bevelled edge ground down flat to the blade - it takes a bit of work but it is well worth it. For small game the Fallkniven F1 survival knife is spot on, as it is a no nonsense fixed blade with a sensible blade length, well designed handle and razor sharp blade. It is at the top end of the spectrum of what I would pay for a small hunting blade, as the reality is that they tend to get lost sooner or later due to size and frequency of use. I stay clear of folding knives, as whilst they are convenient and discrete to store away in a pocket, they are always significantly more time consuming to clean properly. Despite superb modern design, I never fully trust a folding blade for heavy work. Gut hooks are becoming popular (and I have tried a few), but I find that its quicker to learn how to gut correctly with a blade as in the time that it takes to make the incision/ insert the hook and cut the stomach the job would have been long done by a skilled hunter with a normal blade. The trick with small hunting blades is to go for something very sharp and with a nice tip to the blade, but not so pointed that one continuously prick the inner gut. The Fallkniven knives are superb for the job and providing they are not lost in the field will last for ages.

Saw http://www.heinnie.com The outdoor edge griz-saw is a good value reliable saw that is perfect for making hides for pigeon shooting or for cutting bone. It holds its edge superbly and it is comfortable and effortless to use.

Dog trailers and car boxes http://www.caninekennels.com/~sa_webapp/run.asp?page=7401 Canine kennels are a great company who provide police forces /military and thus have a wealth of product knowledge when you phone up. All of their gear is tried and tested high quality equipment. I have bought countless products from them over the years ranging from bowls to bite sleeves to kennels & have always been very pleased with the service.

Dog coats http://www.dogcoats.net/catalog/index.php?cPath=88

Blank fire guns (for training gun dogs) http://www.euroguns.co.uk/acatalog/Blanks.html

Tuffies waterproof dog beds http://www.tuffies.co.uk/ Great product, you can literally hose it down when it gets dirty - perfect to chuck in the back of the landrover.

Binoculars http://www.binocularsshop.co.uk/acatalog/bushnell_h20_h2o.html I just use a basic £100 set of Bushnell's. With binoculars the general rule is that the more you pay the better they get, but frankly a basic pair of good quality binoculars will do the same job as an absurdly expensive £1000+ pair… without the worry of bumping them on rocks etc. You don't want a giant pair that can view a gnat at 5 miles; just a basic 8 x mag should be sufficient. A decent sized reticule helps with light maximisation, but again… it doesn't need to be something that looks like it belongs at Nasa to do the job. Also, if you are going to carry them about they need to be light and preferably rubber coated/shock absorbent. If they are too bulky or heavy you will soon stop bothering to take them out with you, and whilst you are hunting they need to be able to take the odd knock without damage. Finally, they need to blend in so avoid models with reflective lens coatings which act as a mirror reflecting light (for obvious reasons).

First aid kit http://www.outdoorsafety.net/sportingdogkits.htm Whenever engaging in country pursuits it is highly advisable to put together not only a first aid kit for yourself, but also one for your dog. A first aid kit is exactly that… a kit to temporarily treat an injury on location, or on route to a vet. As dogs can snag themselves on fences, get twigs caught in their eyes, stand on sharp objects or a injure themselves in countless different ways, it is important that you are able to treat the injury quickly and cleanly. The above link give a rough idea of the types of things that you can include in a kit, but it will vary dependent on what type of hunting that you are doing. A first aid kit of a boar hunter in the Spanish mountains is going to be significantly different to someone rabbiting in the Lake District for example.

Collapsible water bowl http://www.armynnavy.com/catalog/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/269/products_id/2605 Very handy for giving your dog a well deserved drink without taking up much packing space.

Outdoor clothing

When choosing gear for hunting you should remember that the fabric has to be quiet and to blend in. There is no point hunting in cloths that make lots of noise when you walk, legs rubbing against each other and arms against the body. Animals will recognise this noise from a surprising distance and it will be counter productive. Likewise it is pointless hunting in your brightly coloured Berghaus jacket, as whilst they are fantastic for keeping you dry you will stick out like a sore thumb. Wellies and boots should be cleaned properly after every hunt and the latter should be treated with nikwax to protect their waterproof qualities. Your cloths however should not be washed unless they are ingrained with dirt to the extent that it will wear the fibres down, or if they smell of body odour. When they are washed it should be done so without perfumed detergent. The reason for this is that your odour is as much camouflage as the colours that you are wearing. The aim is to blend into the landscapes natural smell so that animals do not clock you as easily when they catch you on the wind. If you set out hunting in your pristine hunting gear reeking of Persil, fragranced deodorant, fragranced hair products, and Gucci aftershave you are seriously narrowing your chances (absurdly I have known people to turn up to hunts doing exactly this.). Finally, you need to learn how to walk when hunting so that 1) Your feet make minimal noise and 2) you are not moving jerkily about. Your movements should be fluid and calm, which makes you blend into the background. Most animals are very sensitive to movement, so sudden or jerky movements really jump out at them when they are surveying their environment. New hunters usually walk as if they are popping down to the local shops and practically stomp through the foliage, and make a din in the process. The trick is to listen to the environment and be mindful of foot placement. This is a real skill that develops and a good hunter can move swiftly and silently whilst blending in visually and in terms of scent. A sound of a cracking twig under foot carries a great distance in the still morning air and it will mark your presence to any nearby game. The ideal is to spot or hear the game before it spots, hears or smells you, as otherwise they will be long gone without your knowledge of them ever being there.

Hunter Wellington's http://www.country-outdoor-clothing.co.uk/mofcart/hunter-all.html Great wellies that will hold against the thickest of brambles over a long period. I find most wellies to be too soft and small punctures start to appear, letting in moisture. I have only tried Barbour wellies once and they were appalling, with the heels deteriorating after only 2 months of "good" usage. I wouldn't pay over £80 for a decent set of wellies though, as ultimately all wellies get snagged by sharp objects and need to be replaced if used frequently. For when I get back to the car after a hunt I use a Barbour Wellington boot bag, they are only about £20 but are worth their weight in gold in terms of the mess that they save you from making on a regular basis.

Zamberlan boots http://www.allweathers.co.uk/index.asp?function=DISPLAYCAT&catid=143 Great footwear, stick to their leather boots & if you treat them well and wax them regularly they just get better with age. They can be sent off to be re-soled by viberam when the tread starts to go.

Barbour clothing http://www.barbour.com/indexFlash.html Their was gear is really well made and despite the cost, they work out to be very good value as they really last. Their shirts are great too, as they really keep you warm and seem to last for ages. The sweaters are a tad bulky for my tastes and they have to be hand washed which is a bit of a pain - I sadly found out the hard way and shrunk a new jumper in the first wash to the extent that it looked toddler sized. I wasn't impressed.

Deerhunter clothing http://www.scottcountry.co.uk/products_list.asp?categories=220 I use their smallville range, which is perfect for most (summer) hunting purposes & is very quiet and quick drying fabric. Their Huntsville range is warmer and more suited to colder weather.

1000 mile socks http://www.runnersworld.ltd.uk/acatalog/1000-Mile-Running-Socks.html Ideal for long hunts where blisters can be an issue. Barbour also makes superb socks for Wellingtons and boots and cost about £10-15 a pair. They last superbly so are very good value & provide excellent cushioning. They are a pinch overly warm for the few summer months but spot on for the rest of the year.

Camo gear http://www.tonyscamo.co.uk/ more realtree than you can shake a stick at. I love this stuff, it may hardly be traditional country clothing but it is fast becoming the staple clothing of the hunter. You can even have your quad bikes treated with your choice of realtree finish.

Game bags http://www.gunslips.co.uk/gunslips.htm There's a wide array of beautiful game-bags available for country pursuits, though I stick with a basic canvas design, as they are light and strong. If you buy a leather game bag you should spend a few pounds extra and get a quality design with supple leather so that it doesn't take much breaking in. One should pay special attention to the quality of the lining as if it is less than top quality it will result in leaks which will stain the leather and make it unpleasant smelling. The lining needs to be fully waterproof and removable to wash. http://www.sticks-etc.co.uk/en-gb/dept_7.html

Watch http://www.tissot.ch/ I swear by this watch for hunting, it's a truly versatile tool with built in electronic compass, altimeter, thermometer, barometer as well as all of the usual sports watch functions. I use the titanium model and it has been used and abused extensively without any problems. Suunto watches are also equally useful; though I don't feel that they share the same heavy duty build quality that the Tissot's do. Also, the Suunto watches seem to be unnecessarily oversized and more suited to skiing and mountaineering purposes.

Hunting with Dogs

Before hunting, one should familiarise themselves with the law so that they know their rights:


Rats, rabbits, retrieval of hares and falconry Dogs may be used to hunt rats or rabbits, to retrieve a hare which has been shot, or to flush a wild mammal from cover to enable a bird of prey to hunt it. Stalking and flushing out
Up to 2 dogs may be used to stalk or flush out a wild mammal if:
  • Preventing or reducing serious damage which the wild mammal would otherwise cause to livestock; to birds or other property; or to the biological diversity of an area.
  • Participation in a field trial in which dogs are assessed for their likely usefulness in connection with shooting.
  • The stalking or flushing out does not involve the use of a dog below ground (unless the requirements of the ' gamekeepers' exemption' are complied with).
  • Reasonable steps must be taken to ensure that as soon as possible after being found or flushed out the wild mammal is shot dead by a competent person.

The 'gamekeepers' exemption'
A single dog may be used below ground to stalk or flush out a wild mammal if:
  • The stalking or flushing out is undertaken for the purpose of preventing or reducing serious damage to game birds or wild birds which are being kept or preserved for shooting.
  • The person doing the stalking or flushing out carries written evidence of land ownership or the permission of the owner or occupier. This evidence must be shown to a police constable immediately on request.
The following conditions are complied with:
  • Reasonable steps are taken to ensure that as soon as possible after being flushed out from below ground the wild mammal is shot dead by a competent person.
  • The dog used is brought under sufficiently close control to ensure that it does not prevent or obstruct the shooting of the wild mammal.
  • Reasonable steps are taken to prevent injury to the dog.
  • The dog is used in compliance with any code of practice which is issued or approved by the Secretary of State for the purpose of this exemption (being prepared by the British Association for Shooting and Conservation).

Recapture of a wild mammal
Dogs may be used to recapture a wild mammal which has escaped or been released from captivity or confinement if:
  • Reasonable steps are taken to ensure that as soon as possible after being found the wild mammal is recaptured or shot dead by a competent person.
  • The wild mammal was not released or permitted to escape for the purpose of being hunted.

Rescue of a wild mammal
Up to 2 dogs may be used to rescue a wild mammal if:
  • The hunter reasonably believes that the wild mammal is or may be injured.
  • The hunting is undertaken for the purpose of relieving the wild mammal's suffering.
  • The hunting does not involve the use of a dog below ground.
  • Reasonable steps are taken to ensure that as soon as possible after being found appropriate action is taken to relieve the wild mammal's suffering.
  • The wild mammal was not harmed so that it could be hunted under this exemption.

Research and observation
Up to 2 dogs may be used to track a wild mammal if:
  • The hunting is undertaken for the purpose of or in connection with the observation or study of the wild mammal.
  • The hunting does not involve the use of a dog below ground.
  • Each dog is kept under sufficiently close control to ensure that it does not injure the wild mammal.